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Vintage Emerald and Diamond Earrings & Ring Set

Vintage emerald and diamond earrings and ring set with emeralds and diamonds in 18k.

These are Chinese earrings from the later part of the 20th century, more ethnic jewellery than retro.

The emeralds are natural and with an overall good lustre, contrasted with clean, old cut diamonds. But what’s well fine in this demi-parure is how the gemstones are set with such tiny prongs.

Fine prong work is not consistent (and sometimes not possible) in fine jewellery, yet we always notice this quality. In jewellery pieces featuring smaller gemstones, the finer the prong and gold work the more the eye picks up the stones (not the gold).

Both earrings and ring are set with a strip of emeralds, flanked by diamonds on both sides, the bling visible mostly at profile. This is a nice, nuanced touch.

This set is hand crafted and all gemstones are set open back. The setting of small gemstones neatly arranged like this is tedious work, but that is when (and why) Chinese jewellery comes across as delicate.

The earrings are hoops that do not swing, or in Western equivalent, huggie earrings. They come to 13mm. The ring can be resized.

The petite earring and ring set should be kept whole. With the flooding of big gemstones in fine jewellery, funny how this set is more chic today than when it was designed.

Likely crafted between the ’50s and ’70s.

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