18k antique navette diamond ring set with an open back emerald center stone. The rose cut diamonds are hand cleaved and all quite big, of good color and clarity. The make of the ring, in particular the hand cleaved diamonds, closely resembles the loftier antique Peranakan ‘intan’ diamond rings in these regions. We are led to believe this Victorian ring could be made by craftsmen from the British Colonies during its time given it is unmarked. Further contributing to its ‘colony’ status is the layout of its gemstones – most English antique navette rings have a smaller center stone relative to the setting of diamonds, whereas this smallish navette ring features a rather ‘lavish’ old cut emerald at approximately 0.5cts and generously sized diamonds. The outcome is an impression of a ‘smaller’ (less busy) and highly wearable navette ring with a very visible, vivid emerald.
It is interesting to compare this navette diamond ring with the Peranakan ‘kana’ rings of the same time. Once again we attest to the Victorian influence in Peranakan jewelry art and see how locality in turn directs the outcome of what was essentially ‘English’. We witness the ‘long road’ coveted gemstones travel – this one will go in a blink.
(Antique Navette Diamond Ring, Emerald)