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antique rose cut diamond pendant
antique rose cut diamond pendant

Antique Rose Cut Diamond Pendant, Peranakan

20k hand cut rose cut diamond pendant from the early part of the 20th century. Like rose cut diamonds, these diamonds are hand cleaved. But unlike rose cut diamonds, these hand cut diamonds are even more random, in a style peculiar to the jewelry of South East Asia, of Straits Chinese Peranakan provenance. These hand cleaved diamonds are not perfectly round or perfectly anything. The gold work is pierced to the size of each diamond, however uncalibrated. Thus they require skill to set. Due to the nature of how primitively these natural diamonds were cut and set, the size was lesser of a concern than how white or sparkly the diamonds were. The elegance of Peranakan gold jewelry is thinly pierced openwork, where the filigree can only be brought alive by clean white diamonds, the raw edges regarded as part of the appeal of an ‘organic’ rose cut. Shaped like a kite cluster, this is a medium size pendant, at about 3.5cm long and 2.5cm wide. There are two diamond drops that swing freely, much like a Western lavaliere pendant. The appeal of this is really its ultra flat structure, almost to a sheet of gold foil, pierced and set with diamonds. This flatness is a distinction that separates it from many pendants. Its lightweight intricacy is a Peranakan trademark. The pendant’s Art Deco origins is decorated with Peranakan whim, can you tell?

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