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Rose Cut Diamond Ring, Antique Peranakan Jewellery

20k antique rose cut diamond ring set with two rose cut diamonds in a swirl band.
This is a historical Peranakan ring that is precious. Not because it is old, but because a moderne form in an undecorated design is hard to come by in Peranakan jewellery art. Many of these designs have been melted down.
The two ‘intan’ or hand cleaved diamonds are 6mm long and 4.5mm wide, fairly large enough to showcase the rose cut facets well. One diamond is darker than the other, but Peranakan ‘intan’ diamonds are meant to shine organically rather than in the conventional way.
The diamonds appear much bigger on the finger. This is due to the way the two diamonds are held, with an off tangent that gives a wider reach on the finger. You can see clearly the simple facets of the old rose cut through the diamonds.
Each diamond is held by 7 prongs, in a minimal scroll gallery not usual in Peranakan rings. The scrollwork is only as thick as the prongs, but it is this delicacy that makes this ring appealing.
The ring has quite complete hallmarks, with the jeweller and the gold mark, likely to date to the turn of the last century.
It is no coincidence its design is similar to Victorian rings in the same era, and in particular the ‘too et moi’ French diamond rings. The affluent Peranakans adapted much of Victorian fashion during that time, and kind of ran with the wind once given the breeze!

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