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SIJS Fancy Diamond And Sapphire Trilogy Ring

A trilogy rose gold ring set with two fancy color diamonds and one blue sapphire. All stones are completely natural, untreated and unheated.

We were thinking of Joan Miró when we made this ring. It took us a long time to put the three stones together. Until the configuration felt whole yet surreal.

Many times it is not jewellery that speaks to us but art. This is one of those times.

This ring is fancy in all regards: color, cut, and consideration. Triangle, rhombus, trapezoid; pink and yellow diamonds. Our objective is to make a joyful, modern ring with a combination most jewellers won’t choose.

Fancy color diamonds are usually the centrepiece but we’ve set the pink and yellow diamonds around the sapphire. The idea is to suggest the gentle colors around the staunch blue and let the seemingly opaque sapphire jive to the very clear and festive diamonds.

There is a very nice relationship going when you look at the ring in person. Blue and pink is traditional, but blue and yellow is bold (yet yellow and pink won’t go!).

But take these three colors in a trilogy, vary their saturation and shapes to bring about a form that is not immediately ‘minimal’. We deliberately set the bezels as very linear outlines to the fancy cut stones. If you gaze at the ring longer, this is a very sedative piece of jewellery.

This is because shapes provide a contextual meaning to their whole. The sharp linearity actually smoothens the asymmetry of the cuts. The irregular shapes no longer seem ‘irregular’ and there is harmony in their angles.

It is not easy to set these fancy cuts in a ring that properly contours to the finger. Free rein is given to the ring shoulders as each side continues the flow of the two fancy cut diamonds. The ring band is uncontrolled and organic.

The fancy color diamonds weigh 0.44ctw. The blue sapphire is slightly over 1ct. All stones are very clear (at least VS). The ring is set in platinum and 18k rose gold.

Diamonds need not always be centrepieces, not even fancy color ones. (Yet sapphires in the same color just aren’t the same.) And the dark blue sapphire favourite need not always be a ‘square’ or round. Finally, it is possible to subvert many ‘sharp’ points and make them lush.

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