10k vintage citrine cocktail ring set with a 8.7ct Madeira citrine.
The foliage is a frequent reference of the Arts and Craft movement, where motifs are less stylized than Art Nouveau pieces and organic to Nature. There are not many cocktail rings on SIJS, but this one is a good balance of artistry and showmanship.
The deep orange citrine is a big size and not easy to set well, yet the foliage catches it at the shoulder so naturally. The branches and wood grain extend for half the ring shank and does not stunt or overly decorate the simply-faceted citrine. The oversized bezel is made of many teardrop ‘prongs’ and the generous gap in each teardrop work together like a cameo around the stone.
This ring is from the ’40s, with a very artistic, free richness. It is hard to be inventive when the stone is this big. To showcase a lone stone without the distraction of diamonds or accent stones is always a challenge. Cocktail ring or not, this vintage giant is more bohemian than chunky.
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