We have been working on building a setting for a 2ct Ceylon blue sapphire ring. The gem is a little dark, but it is almost a perfect oval, which means that it is an ideal candidate for an east-west setting.
No diamonds on this one – we wanted this ring to be simple but stately. The idea was to give it a feeling of history, back to a time when we did not overthink things, and we had no distractions.
Despite the sapphire being dark, we decided to close off the bezel, like in old Georgian rings. How do you still maintain the lustre and brilliance of a dark gemstone in a closed back setting?
One way is to set the gem a little bit higher, so that light could enter the stone sideways. But you also don’t want the gallery to look too high – that small difference of where you place the ring band on the bezel is what would make or break the stateliness of this ring.
Another thing we did was to use 8 prongs. Not 4 or 6, but 8. And we didn’t want to use plain old wire tube prongs – we made them triangular. This was the part that took the longest time to build.
A simple ring is not really simple, because it has to be simple without being boring. This ring would fail if any part of it is even slightly off the mark. Proportion is everything.
See the completed work here.