Art Nouveau Pendant Brooch

Fine large sapphire brooch pin set with sapphire, jade, spinel and diamonds in 22k.

The long brooch is a versatile form – the jewel is also designed to be worn as a pendant.

The main stone weighs 13.89ct, an unheated blue sapphire from Sri Lanka, with a medium to deep tone in an intense to rich saturation.

The sapphire is set at an angle, not to hide, but to honor the color zoning of the natural bi-color stone.

The tone and saturation flickers on a spectrum, the sapphire displays distinctly at different angles.

In some angles, it is almost all blue. At other angles, its blue is paused.

The open-stone design reflects an unusual decision to value color zoning – Art has candour as Nature’s vessel.

The virgin gold body relaxes when worn with fabric (mesh, velvet, silk, etc), there are personal ways to style a modern day Art Nouveau jewel.

The two ways of wearing are possible from the flower’s pendulous design: stone up (brooch) or stone down (pendant) – the eyes behold the sapphire as if two different stones.

Purple and pale pink sapphires branch above emerald green jade, the silhouette of a refreshing colorway on its billowy drawn-out form, backed by a vine of blackened gold.

Spinels are used when smaller stones are needed to befriend the gold, with diamonds reserved for the black (gold) and a small rim at the end.

The gold work is superlative, to achieve the likeness of “stones carved onto gold”, pegged against the nano millegrain work edged throughout the yellow (gold).

The jewel, a large brooch, feels like a sculpted gold object, small between fingers.

All stones are natural and unheated: sapphires are Sri Lankan; jade and spinel are Burmese.

The brooch pendant measures 5.7cm by 4.7cm, weighing 43.3 grams.

Purple sapphires weigh 8.15ctw; pink sapphires weigh 3.5ctw, spinels weigh 2.8ctw; yellow sapphires weigh 0.4ctw; diamonds weigh 1.3ctw.

GIA Report 6341617918.